Anyway, some of the images here aren't perfect as I didn't get the remjet backing off perfectly, but you'll see that this film has a decent tonal range, especially considering that the camera I used was one I pieced together from multiple broken cameras (so it may not be perfect.)
Developing 250D is similar to nut not exactly like developing standard monochrome film. Firstly, there's a carbon black backing which will partially come off in the developer. So you may not want to reuse developer after running this stuff through it. I re-use the developer, though, and it's fine. The remjet settles out at the bottom of the bottle after a few days and as long as I don't use the dregs or agitate the fluid, the developer remains fairly clear.
The only hitch for me is temperature control. Color film needs higher temperatures than monochrome, so when I develop this, after the first full-minute of agitation, I keep it under a light hot water stream during the following three minutes. This works best with a metal film tank. The developer remains warm for the rest of the 10-11 minutes this film needs to develop.
That's my recipe, but you should practice variations. Also, leave a comment if you've home developed this before and have any suggestions.
During the rinse, I rinse the film once and the water comes out grayish. That's the remjet again. Then I fill it about half way and violently shake the film tank. The water comes out nearly black. A second time and the water is mostly clear, indicating that as much remjet as can be removed by water alone has been removed.
A standard fix of 10 minutes and the film is ready to wash. At the end of the wash, I run the film under a water stream and use my fingers to squeegee away the remaining remjet. This works well and if you do it correctly won't leave scratches on the emulsion. Here are some (sub-par) results.
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